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2023 Kingfish Tournament and Rodeo

Thank You to all of the Nassau Sport Fishing Association's tireless Volunteers that endured the crazy heat this year to make this tournament happen. 

.If you have a catch you are proud of just send your pictures and the particulars to Info@nsfafish.net 

Lawrence Piper gives away his secrets at the June 2023 NSFA Social and Karl Mzorek tells us how to catch Kingfish


   

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Leading the charge on handling bull redfish

Everyone likes catching big fish. They put up a great fight, come with serious bragging rights, look super cool in a profile pic and, if harvested, they can feed lots of friends and family. Bull redfish are just one example of a popular saltwater species that have anglers chasing “the big one” for their next fish tale. While there is no doubt that monster reds have rightfully earned their place in the big leagues, any redfish angler worth their salt will tell you 

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Right Whales

Help us get the word out about how anglers can avoid right whale collisions.

As you may know, last year, there was a collision between a boat operating in a tournament and a mother and calf right whale off the coast of St. Augustine. The boat involved in the collision was luckily close enough to shore to beach itself, allowing crew and passengers to leave the boat safely. The calf in the incident died and the mother was severely injured. The boat was a total loss.

We are hoping the information in this attached flier might help anglers and boaters avoid similar scenarios. We already have had out first right whale sighting off Florida this year.

Can you please share this with your tournament participants or anywhere you feel is appropriate? Also, if you are having an upcoming meeting and would like FWC staff there, we can work on scheduling something.

If you need anything more from us on our end, my contact information is below. Thanks.

Amanda Nalley

Public Information Specialist

Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission


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"Taking the Bait" Wins the 2023 Kingfish tournament with a 47.7 lb. Kingfish.                                     

On August 12, NSFA hosted the 40th annual Fernandina Beach Kingfish Tournament and Fishing Rodeo with over $52,000 in cash and prizes paid out. We had a great turnout of competitors with 110 captains and their crews competing for the kingfish prize. This year, NSFA eliminated the small boat division and implemented a 3 mile from the beach eastern boundary so that all kingfish competitors had an equal opportunity to find the prize fish. With the beginning of the fall mullet run, the kingfish were on the beach and 50 teams were able to take advantage, bringing fish to the scales.  

Congratulations to our winning team on Tak’n The Bait captained by Justin Hammons with a 47.7# fish.

NSFA also had 24 crews competing in the rodeo tournament targeting Redfish, Sea Trout, Flounder, and Sheepshead. Despite the high temperatures of the day and the corresponding high water temperatures, our competitors were able to coax some fine catches with 2 teams weighing in the local Slam of Redfish, Trout, and Flounder on the same day. Not an easy feat on such a warm day.

Congratulations to our winning captains:

  • Redfish, Devin Durance, 6.92

  • Trout, Brad Ecklof, 5.98

  • Flounder, Austin Stallard, 3.4

  • Redfish Spots, Ken McKuhen,5

  • Sheepshead,Tom Riley,4.64

In addition to the cash and prizes, A Torium 40PG Reel donated by Renn Works Outdoor, a 2 night stay at Omni Hotel, with valet parking and breakfast donated by Omni Hotes and Resorts and 4 gift cards to Southern Coast Seafood donated by Lewis Joseph were all raffled off after the awards. A rod and reel combo, donated by Amelia Bait and Tackle was awarded for the redfish with the most spots and a Torium Reel and Star rod combo donated by Jax Drains and Resellers Reef was awarded for the kingfish closest to the Mystery Weight of 17.7 lbs. Captain Chris Eason of Max Effort  won the $1,000 traveler award for the biggest kingfish staying in a preferred hotel. 

Many thanks to our event sponsors and partners, The city of Fernandina Beach, Amelia Island Tourist Development, and the Southern Kingfish Association. We would also like to thank all our generous sponsors, particularly our platinum sponsors, NEFL Sales and Budwiser, the Fernandina Beach NewsLeader, Key West Ocean Outboard Marine, Ameris Bank, and Dave Turner Plumbing. Because of them, NSFA is able to continue our tradition of giving back by funding and awarding the NSFA Merit Scholarships and contributing to other charitable organizations supporting the youth of Nassau County. Please visit our 2023 Sponsors on our Sponsor Page.

We would like to also thank all of the Nassau Sport Fishing Association's tireless Volunteers that endured the crazy heat this year to make this tournament happen.

Thanks to SolarisFoto for photographing our entire tournament and to Coastal Media Marketing for providing our social media support. We would also like to thank our MC Rick Ryals for another great year. Thank you to the Hampton Inn Downtown, the Marriott Courtyard, and the Residence Inn by Marriott for being our preferred hotels and providing our tournament guests with discounted accommodations. Thanks to Reel Thirsty Ice for being the official Ice vendor of the NSFA Kingfish Tournament. And, so many others. Thanks to everyone involved.

And One More, Thanks to all of the Anglers that fished our tournament this year and we hope to see everyone next year.

The official results along with tournament photos are posted on our website and on our Nassau Sport Fishing Association Facebook page.



There are some nice fish in the backwaters of Amelia Island. Sign up now for the 40th annual 

DIY: Build a Jig To Tie a Better Dropper Rig


Courtesy Reckon I'll

Improving On An Already Good Thing

The concept of a board to tie double-dropper rigs is not novel…I’ve seen several iterations, all with there own flare.

My motivation for my take on the dropper-rig board can be seen in the picture below:

Original Dropper JigA functional, albeit, “rough” dropper rig board

What I Want In a Dropper Rig Board

As you can see, my original board is made of MDF and tacks. It’s given to bending the tacks, snagging your clothing or skin and difficult to store and transport.

My ideal board needs to provide the following:

Ease Of Transport

I need a board that can be easily and compactly stashed in the car for our long road trips to Florida. No bent nails and puncture wounds!

Versatility

Depending on the conditions, I experiment with different leader lengths and loop lengths. I want a board that can vary sizes of leaders produced.

Reinventing the Dropper Loop Board

It wasn’t until I articulated my ideas around this project to my wife that I got the inspiration needed. I was originally planning a concept using rare earth magnets and dowels when I remembered the mind teaser puzzles I played with while waiting for food at the Cracker Barrel.

Inspiration from the Cracker Barrel

The final design of this board is based on the game that uses golf tees to change the configuration of the puzzle. It will support dropper loops for the following loop and lead lengths:

Dropper Loop Size Distance between Mainline, Loops and Sinker
2″ 10″
3″ 10″
4″ 10″
5″ 12″
6″ 14″

Materials Needed

Step 1: Scribe A Line Lengthwise

Scribe a line across the bottom of the board (I used the width of a yard stick). This will serve as the first reference point for your measurements.

Step 2: Scribe a Perpendicular Line at the Midpoint

Find the midpoint of your horizontal line and scribe another perpendicular line. This will be your second point of reference.

Step 3: Measure Your First “Triangle”

The pegs of the board will be placed as equilateral triangles. The technique I’m going to demonstrate will prevent you from having to dust off your memory of the Pythagorean Theorem.

Just remember that the length of 1 side of your equilateral triangle will equal the length of your dropper loop. Since we are going to support from 2″ – 6″ dropper loops, you will measure half the distance of your dropper loop.

The picture above is me measuring for the 3″ dropper loop (I decided to add 2″ support later) so that is why the digital calipers read: 1.5″ (half of 3″).

Tip: Use Digital Calipers
You can use a ruler or tape to measure, but the benefit of the digital calipers is precision as well as the ability to use the share end to push into the pine board and make the hole location…its just faster and you are going to be marking a lot of holes!

Step 4: Mark the Remaining Triangle Bases

Triangle Base Marks

Using your calipers, continue to mark the remaining measurements for each dropper loop size. Again, the picture above doesn’t show the 2″ loop marks, but the measurements would be the following respectively: 1″, 1.5″, 2″, 2.5″, 3″….if you make the same marks on both sides of the midpoint, you will have loops of 2″, 3″, 4″, 5″, 6″.

Step 5: Mark the Remaining Triangle Bases

The next step is to mark the top of the triangle. Simply set the full length of desired loop and measure from one of the corresponding mark on the baseline to the scribed line.

The picture above shows the completion of the 3″ triangle.

Step 6: Complete Remaining Triangles

Completed Triangles

Complete Step 5 for each remaining triangle.

Step 7: Measure Distance for Fixed Post Points

From the 6″ marking on the baseline, measure out 1.5″ to mark the location for a post post. Repeat on the left-side of the baseline as well.

This location will be universally as an anchor point for all dropper loop sizes.

Step 8: Measure Termination Point Distance for 2″ Dropper Loop

I’ve already done the math to get the leader lengths described in the introduction. Holding a speed square to the board, measure 4.5″ between the fixed post point you marked in Step 7 flush with the speed square.

This point marks the termination point to always have 10″ of line between each loop, the sinker, or the end attached to your main line.

This is known, because the right-leader length is the distance from the left baseline point of the triangle and the termination point you just calculated. If you measure yourself, you will find 5.5in from the left-side to the fixed post point… you then need a point that is 4.5″ away to makeup the 10″.

Step 9: Measure the 3″ and 4″ and 5″ termination points

Measure termination points

The 3″ and 4″ points can be measured by measuring .5″ back towards the baseline from the 2″ point you marked in Step 8.

The 5″ point, since the leader for the 5″ loop will be 12″, can be measured .5″ from the 2″ mark in Step 7, going away from the baseline.

Again, this can be easily confirmed by measuring from the left-side of the triangle in question to the termination point.

Once complete you will have a straight line of termination points.

Step 10: Mark the 6″ Loop Termination Point

6" Termination Point

Since the 6″ loop will have a 14″ leader, measure 1.5″ from the 5″ termination point you marked in Step 9.

Step 11: Set Angle for Left-side Termination Points

Rather than use a 45 degree angle, offset the speed square on the left-side to give yourself more room to place the spool of line. The marks in the picture above were my original marks, but I opted to offest a bit and scribe a line.

Step 11: Set Angle for Left-side Termination Points

Left side termination points

Repeat the process from Steps 8 – 10 for the left-side of the board.

Step 12: Set Angle for Left-side Termination Points

Using a 11/64″ drill bit, drill out each hole on the board marked.

Tip: Go for the Tighter Fit
The 3/16″ inch drill bit is actually the perfect size for the tees, but with pine I find that over time the holes expand. To maintain the tight fit, I went down in hole size for a tighter fit.

Step 13: Drill a Hole for the Spool

Spool Hole

Location doesn’t have to be precise, but drill a hole toward the top left of the board to hole the spool of line.

Step 14: Round Off the Board Edges

Route the edges

Smooth the edges using a 1/4″ roundover bit.

Step 15: Bisect End of Board

Bisect End of Board

Find the center of the board edge and make a mark. This will be used to build a place to store the parts of the board when not in use.

Step 16: Measure Holes on Both Sides of Midpoint Mark

Measure 8 marks (9 if you drill the center mark).

Step 17: Drill Out Holes

Drill holes

Drill a small pilot hole for each mark and slowly step up to a 3/16″ bit being careful drill straight down (we want the extra room on these holes so the larger bit is needed).

Tip: Use A Standup Drill Press
Ideally, you would do this drilling with a standup drill press, but I unfortunately don’t have one with enough clearance so hand-drilled.

Step 18: Burn Key onto Back of Board

Burn Key

With all those holes, I figured a key was in order. I came up with a unique mark for each combination and burned it into the back for reference.

Tip: Write In Pencil First
I found it easier to write in pencil what I plan to burn into the wood and then trace it with the wood burner.

Step 19: Transfer Key Symbols to the Board

Transfer Key

Use the symbols in the key to mark the holes to use with the preferred dropper loop size.

Step 20: Add a Finish

Stain and seal the board

Stain (I used Golden Oak) and seal with 3 coats of polyurethane.

The Finished Product

Full SetupFull Board Setup for a 4″ Dropper RigKeyFull Key Burned Into the BackTee HolderTees Secured for Travel

How To Use It

Step 1: Install the Spool

Install spoolAnchor the Spool with A Tee

Step 2: Install the Line Holder

Transfer Key

Step 3: Install the Fixed Posts

Transfer Key

Step 4: Setup Triangle for the Desired Size

Transfer Key

Step 5: Tie a Figure Eight Knot (Used for Sinker Attachment)

Transfer Key

Step 6: Wrap Around the Jig and Anchor at Knot

Wrap PatternTransfer KeyWedge the figure-8 knot between the gaskets

Step 7: Twist Base of Triangle Six Times

Transfer Key

Step 8: Remove Line From Top of Triangle and Push Through Center of Twist

Transfer Key

Step 9: Return Line to Post and Tighten By Pulling Out

Transfer Key

Step 10: Re-thread Jig and Anchore at Loop from Step 9

Transfer Key

Step 11: Tie Another Loop Using Steps 7 – 9

Step 12: Cut Line at Left-side Termination Point

Transfer Key

Step 13: Tie A Perfection Loop for Attaching to Main Line

Transfer Key

Watch the video to see how to use the board you have just made to see how to tie your new dropper rigs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ish9LBS4Yk

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